Wednesday, November 21, 2012

Bikes of Cuba

I love bicycles:  as machines, works of art, emblems of sustainable living that encourages activity and community, economical transportation, envrionmentalism, sport, leisure, history, travel . . . .



Langston Hughes has that famous poem entitled "I've Known Rivers," and I think I could write one on bikes.

I prefer to bike to work when I can.  I love being in shape to ride 3-4 hours at a steady pace on my road bike in countryside surrounding Athens. I like to ride to the farmers market and load up the bike with healthy provisions for the week.  Getting around campus by bike beats every other mode of travel: 7 minutes from my office to the Ramsey Center for a mid-day workout. Bikes are just cool.

And when I travel, I look for bikes: Copenhagen, Amsterdam, Germany, Austria, Uganda, Portland.  In Uganda, a bike can be the difference in having a livilhood or not (which reminds me of the centrality of the bike in the old Italian film "The Bicycle Thief"--no bike, no job).  Or it meant the difference between a health care worker seeing just a few patients a day to seeing a dozen or more.  I think that if I were to start a country, I would have a bicycle on the national flag.

So I zeroed in on bikes as soon as we landed in Cuba.  Like the cars, the bikes of Cuba are mostly old.

 
 


And they are utilitarian.  The first one below is serves as a mobile cart for the predominant kind of onion that was available.  But there were a wide range of utility bikes such as the three-wheeler below it.  Last in this set is the mobile bakery.  Older gentlemen would wheel their bikes through the streets of Gibrara crying out "PAN!" and people would step out their front doors that open on the sidewalk and buy the cheap white loaves that constituted the only kind of bread I encountered during the week.

 
 
 
 
 
The best bikes seemed to be the ones that had been built over time from parts the home mechanics could procure.  Roberto, seen here on his way to the market with his wife, built this sturdy, ridable bike with the best components that I saw in all of Gibrara, and he was diligent in taking care of it.  I was suprised to see the northern European-style bike complete with fancy kickstand and padded seat on the rack.  While not as common as in Uganda, folks in Cuba will still hitch a ride on a bike rack sitting side saddle.
 
 
 
 
Adaptations and retrofitting are always interesting too.  Here's a bike that I encountered out in the country when we were visiting the more far-flung missions.  While I doubt it was functional, this bike is an example of the ingenuity and inventiveness of Cubans to make something out of what is available.
 
 

And as Holly and I wandered the streets of Gibara one afternoon, we happened upon this handcycle.  As we were admiring it, a gentlemen with an obvious disability walked out of his "flat" and graciously posed with his government-issue bike.  He was proud of it and spoke of his plans to repaint it.



 
 
But always, the proof is in the riding.  I asked a gentleman out in the country if I could ride his bike and he obliged.  Evidently, I rode a bit farther than he expected and he expressed concern about me stealing it.  Me: un ladron de la bicicleta. And at the Gibrara library, in the back courtyard, there was this bicycle go cart that just begged for me to play in.  Note the old school-type seat backs, the bread rack on the back, and the "front lights" made from old speakers. 
 
 
 


I think I spotted one "road cyclist" while I was travelling about.  The roads aren't exactly conducive for road cycling even if bikes were affordable for such a frivolous activity.  But perhaps one of the real limiting factors in cycling for exercise is the lack of calories.  Last year, one of the group members had the opportunity to visit a home gym that consisted of weight equipment made from old car parts and engines:  Cubans do repeat sets of transmission lifts.  When he asked about cardiovascular exercise, the reply was that nobody in Cuba runs;  there aren't enough calories for that kind of exercise. 

Thunder Road Half Marathon

Last Saturday I ran the Thunder Road Half Marathon in Charlotte, the race that I have most consistently run since I started doing distance racing again back in 2006.  I like this race for a number of reasons:  one is it is in Charlotte, which is kind of a second home to me and one of the handful of towns that I've ever lived in besides Durham, Detroit, Chapel Hill, and Athens.  Erica's family all live there.  I like Charlotte, especially relative to Atlanta, though to be fair I only stay in the very nicest parts of the city--Myers Park and Dilworth.  My friend Eric Whiteside lives in Charlotte so I always get to see him.  It's close to Athens, and the course is interesting.  They've moved it from December to November, evidently for shopping reasons (!) but I'm just as happy because the last time I did the race back in 2010 it was gonad-numbingly cold.


I've run three 1:35s in this race (2007, 2008, 2010), one magnificent 1:32 (2008), and a respectable 1:34 this year.  That was good enough for 80th overall, 14th in my age group, a 7:10/mile pace.  It's a amazing to me that the difference between my 1:32:07 and my 1:34:01 is a measly 7 seconds/mile. It all adds up.  I ran Thunder Road one month after a slow 1:36:10 for the Athens Half in October.  What I learned from the Athens Half is that I really do need to start conservatively.  I think I could have run Athens faster, but I started slowly and cautiously sped up to a low 7-minute/mile pace.  Actually, given the training that I did, I was suprised to get a 1:36 in Athens.  So I took the same strategy to Charlotte and I like the results.  Below are my mile splits for the Charlotte half.  Mile 2 is a bit of a mystery and the 6:57 was a bit of a shock.  The last mile is uphill. Overall, the negative splits suggests that this is way that I run as a middle-aged athlete.

Splits
  1. 7:13
  2. 7:42
  3. 7:16
  4. 7:08
  5. 7:12
  6. 6:57
  7. 7:07
  8. 7:07
  9. 7:05
  10. 7:03
  11. 7:05
  12. 7:05
  13. 7:17

I'd like to find another half marathon in December or January or Februrary that is close but the only ones I'm finding are suspicious looking.

Monday, November 12, 2012

Cuba: Coches de Caballos

There's a lot to say about my trip to Cuba, and not all of it will eventually make it to the blog, but to start out with I'd like to talk about the cognitive dissonance that Cuba causes a "yuma," un estadounidense, an "American."  ("Yuma" is the Cuban term for Gringo, "estadounidense" is Spanish for a person from the United States, which is much more accurate--I learned in Chile last year--than calling ourselves "American").

When I saw the coches de caballos (horse cars), which most Cubans seem to call just "coches," I didn't think of Charleston, Savannah, or any other historic city that has the twee phenomenon of horse-drawn carriages, but upon reflection those seeming anachronist tourist conveyances in US are a powerful juxtaposition  of the basic needs of Cubans that highlights the difference between life in the two countries.


This is not a tourist trip; this is a local taxi taking, among others, kids to school. Gibara wakes up with crowing roosters and squealing pigs being carts off at the end of "la madrugada," the time between midnight and dawn, and the rumble of the coches is not far behind.  Coches are a cheap way to get across town, and like taxis anywhere, they congregate where people look for a ride--the bus station and the crossroads of crowded, bleak Soviet-era apartment blocks.  Cheap and plentiful, these are the yellow Checker cabs of Gibara.


But it gets more complicated.  Horses need feed, and there's not a whole lot for them to eat in these densely packed village streets.  Where there's a need, there's someone willing to do the tedious work to fill it.  As we rode a truck made in Detroit in the early 50s and retrofitted to look like a military personnel transport vehicles, we encountered men on the side of the road with machetes hacking, gathering, and hauling grass to town to sell to the drivers of the coches for their worn-own steeds.


This fellow was pretty far out from Gibara.  As Holly noted at the time, relative to the horses in town, this one looks well fed, grazing while his master hacks at the roadside grass.  Median grass, shoulder grass, gutter grass:  a raw, natural material that estadounidenses wouldn't consider as having any value, as being a nuisance requiring state maintence:  in Cuba, it is a way to make a little money using what resources are available.  Backbreaking.  I can only imagine how little this guy gets paid for harvesting and transporting grass back to the towns.


And while these guys take a wagon load to market, they get passed by a late-model Korean car,  a rental driven by tourist.  The smoke in between is from the exhaust of our 1949 Plymouth truck.  The disjunction is jarring.